Mustang News

Nothing kills a man’s ego and pride quite like the sound of a starter struggling to turn over his expensive new high-compression, big-cube engine in the cruise night parking lot. Worse yet is a round lost at the dragstrip when the motor just won’t fire. Hot starts and modified engines put added stress on the starter, and stock units just aren’t up to the task. Fortunately, TCI is there to help with starters able to keep up with any muscle car enthusiast’s high horsepower demands.

TCI Automotive started building torque converters in 1968 in Memphis,Tennessee with two goals in mind: performance and reliability. In the mid ‘70s, TCI expanded their business and began building complete racing transmissions. The company expanded once again in the ‘80s and ‘90s to add flex plates and starters to their product line. The latest advances in their starter technology are permanent magnet motors that are lighter and more compact than standard field coil models, making them perfect for performance and racing applications.

TCI Permanent Magnet Starters

TCI has many different starter types available for various applications. For tow rig and street applications, their high-torque starters are remanufactured OEM units with four full field windings that provide 20% more torque than stock, and high temperature solenoids designed to resist heat soak from exhaust headers. TCI’s racing starter line is composed of all-new (not rebuilt) units, with the standard version’s field coil motor developing 1.9 horsepower, and the “extreme” starter cranking out 3.0 horsepower, making it capable of spinning engines running 11.5 to 1 compression or even higher. The Permanent Magnet Racing Starter we’ll be showing you today uses a more compact electric motor that, thanks to its permanent magnet design, develops more torque per amp than a conventional field coil motor. In particular, we’ll examine one specific application for GM engines – the LS series.

GM LS Engines

Both Gen III and Gen IV GM LS engines have become popular starting blocks for engine builds, with many big power upgrades available for street/strip applications. In our case, we installed the TCI LS Series starter in our ’71 Nova that we equipped with an LS3. The aftermarket oil pan and headers that we installed put clearance at a premium, and combined with the desire for a starter that could handle anything we threw at it, we felt that the TCI Permanent Magnet Racing Starter was definitely called for.

TCI’s Permanent Magnet Racing Starter offers big torque in a small package.

TCI’s LS Starter: A Closer Look

A quality starter begins with quality components. “TCI’s starter is based on a Hitachi starter with different components added,” says Scott Miller of TCI Automotive. A 6 to 1 gear reduction drive multiplies the high-speed motor’s torque, and a 12-position mount lets you “clock” the solenoid to provide the maximum clearance. TCI says their starter can work on engines with a compression of 12:1, while stock-style starters begin to check out once you exceed 9:1. “You can use this starter with a higher compression set up; it just puts more load on it which will decrease the life of the starter,” Miller explains.

TCI’s billet starter mount offers 12 different mounting positions to allow the solenoid to go where the headers and oil pan aren’t.

The big advantages of the permanent magnet design are reduced weight and low amperage draw. The LS starter tips the scales at only 7.5 pounds, approximately 50% lighter than stock. “You can hold it in one hand and get the bolts started with other hand,” Miller pointed out. The difference in weight means the starter is a lot easier to install, and it helps take weight off the nose of the car.

Because permanent magnet starters have no field coils, they draw a little bit less power than an equivalent conventional starter. Per Miller, “The difference is about 2 or 3 amps.” Every little bit available to the ignition helps, especially when running a total-loss electrical system.

TCI perfects their products by putting them through rigorous tests to make sure you get the quality you expect. “Before being shipped out, every starter is put on the dyno to get precise functionality tested,” explained Miller. “We also make sure the solenoid is not drawing too many amps and that the pinion gear is spinning correctly.”

Starter Ingenuity

Starters are generally pretty straightforward parts to install, and the TCI Permanent Magnet Racing Starter’s adjustable mount doesn’t appreciably complicate the process. Simply unscrew three hex head bolts and you can then easily remove the mounting plate and turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to get the desired position. Miller says, “People were installing different oil pans and headers, and the stock starter would get in the way. So, we came up with this design so you can put the solenoid in any position to clear the headers and oil pans.” Once you find the position that works for your application, the LS Series starter is mounted just like the stock one.

Three hex head bolts are removed to allow the solenoid to be repositioned relative to the starter mount.

<img src='http://www2.powertvonline.com/digitalads/www/delivery/avw.php?zoneid=30&cb=473573&n=a1fb2532' border='0' alt=''

There are two bolts that go through the mounting plate and into the block. With the starter mounted to the block there should be a clearance of .100” +/- .040” between the pinion and the ring gear. If there is a clearance anywhere outside of those numbers, the starter needs to be removed and the mounting plate and block need to be checked for nicks or burrs.

After checking the pinion-to-ring gear clearance, the backlash needs to be checked. This is done by pulling the pinion gear out into the ring gear and checking the clearance. There should be a 0.35” to .060” clearance. Miller stated, “It’s a bolt-in deal. There is no shimming or anything like that needed.”

Unlike the typical “white box” auto parts store special, the TCI starter goes in with no shimming necessary to get the proper pinion-to-ring clearance.

TCI Tip: When hooking up the wires to the starter, you have to be careful not to over-torque the nut on the upper stud. A battery connection to the main terminal, a second positive wire to the ignition switch, and a ground connection are all it takes.

A Reliable Performance Starter

The TCI Permanent Magnet Starter turns over the high performance LS3 engine in our Nova with ease time after time. With applications for both LS-style and traditional mouse motors, there’s no excuse for owning a small block Chevy of any vintage that goes “RRRRRrrrrrRRRRRrrrrr” instead of “Vroom!” High compression, hot starts, and tight quarters are no obstacle to reliable starts thanks to TCI.

Source:

TCI
151 Industrial Drive, Ashland, Mississippi 38603
Web: www.TCIauto.com
Phone: (662) 224-8255

Considering that we are a video production company and that we publish online magazines, it comes as no surprise that we occasionally geek out a bit on new camera hardware. The latest gadgets to really get our techno-blood pumping are the new Go Pro HD HERO cameras.

We recently picked up a few of these small but feature-packed units for use as on-car cameras. Our expectations were modest to say the least, but after just one afternoon with these pocket sized gems and our original opinions were blown away. The Go Pro HD HERO is one of the best action sports cameras that we have ever used! Let’s learn more about these full HD cameras, as well as show you some of our tips for mounting and using them to record motorsports action.

Camera Overview

Many may remember the first Go Pro camera released just a few short years ago. The original HERO camera took still photos at 3 megapixels and could shoot video in 512×384 pixels at 30 frames per second (FPS). The latest version of the camera, the HD HERO, features a bump up in resolution to 5MP for shooting awesome photos in both single shot and action burst mode.

Just to give you an idea of how compact the HD HERO is, this is the camera in front of a standard-size business card from one of the Go Pro guys.

As cool as the increased still resolution is, it’s really the video side of things that impressed us the most. These cameras, which are literally matchbox-sized, are now capable of shooting video in full 1080p resolution. For those who know more about engine compression than video compression, that means the HD HERO records movies at the same level of quality you get from a Blu-ray DVD player.

Racers will get the most use out of the HD Motorsports HERO suction-cup mount, but the kit comes with several alternative ways of securing the camera to your car, your helmet, or even yourself.

A Tool, Not a Toy

Sure, you can stick this camera on your car and have a blast watching all the footage you start collecting, but there can be more to the HD HERO than just entertainment. Look closely the next time you’re at the track and you’ll see professional race teams using video cameras as a data logging device. Drag racers use them to see how the car is maneuvering down the track, and the circle track guys use them to see their line. By a large margin, Go Pro’s products are the cameras of choice for recording in- and on-car video for testing and analysis.

The HD HERO features simple controls to make it easy to set up and use without being a professional videographer.

We recently had the chance to put these cameras to work on a film shoot with Nitto Tire for their line of off-road tires. Some sample video from that shoot is just below, and be sure to take a look at the demonstration videos from the Go Pro site as well – it’s amazing!

Mounting Tips and Tricks

Go Pro made it very easy to mount these cameras almost anywhere on a vehicle. Their incredibly small size lets them physically fit in places that other cameras simply can’t, and their wide angle lens ensures that you won’t miss the shot even if the camera isn’t perfectly framed.

The suction cup mount will securely attach to most any relatively flat, smooth surface, including body panels and glass or Lexan.

For drag racing, one really cool shot you’ll frequently see from HD HERO users is when the camera is mounted on the trunk of the car. Looking backward, it’s easy to see how the car moves relative to the groove on the launch, all the way down-track, and even when the parachute deploys. Plus, you might just get to see your competition falling behind as well, if you’re lucky…

Thanks to the water-resistant housing, spray from the burnout box won’t do any permanent harm.

Who doesn’t love burnout shots? Besides the entertainment factor of watching smoke boil off the tires, a closeup video of the tire can also be a tuning aid. The Go Pro camera is capable of shooting in both 30 and 60 FPS modes. The higher frame rate lets you slow it down during playback on your computer and see more detail of things like sidewall wrinkle and suspension compression.

The polycarbonate case and tempered glass lens cover are both very durable, but should you somehow damage either piece, they’re inexpensive to replace.

Don’t worry about mounting the camera in a compromising position because these things are truly built to last. The waterproof case makes it submersible up to 180 feet under water, and it also helps to protect the camera from debris like flying rubber. Go Pro has also gone to considerable trouble to design both the camera and case to minimize wind noise – a useful feature when it’s mounted to the outside of a racecar!

The suction mount will work equally well on steel or fiberglass bodywork.

Because there are a number of ways you can position this camera thanks to the adjustable suction mount, the angles that you can achieve with these cameras straight out of the box is limited only by your own creativity.

Interior mounting is easy, too, either with the suction cup or one of the included self-adhesive mounts.

With a Go Pro camera you have the ability to keep an eye on the driver as well. The suction mount can be placed on any flat surface, outside or inside the car – just make sure it is clean. We used a quick shot of detail spray or glass cleaner and a microfiber cloth to prep the surface before sending the car down the track.

Go Pro HD HERO Kit Options

Go Pro sells the HD HERO in a few different flavors for various uses. The only difference between the kits are the types of mounts included in them. The camera is the same no matter which one you order. Here is the quick overview:

HD Helmet HERO

The Helmet HERO was designed for sports where helmets can be used as a mounting point for the camera. A great example of this would be motocross, FMX, street bike riding, and even go karts. We’ve seen base jumpers and skydivers use this one as well.

1 HD HERO Camera (5 megapixel)
1 Rechargeable 1100 mAh Lithium-Ion Battery
1 Waterproof Quick-Release Housing (180’/60m)
1 Headlamp-Style Head Strap
1 Vented Helmet Strap
2 Curved 3M™ Adhesive Mounts
2 Flat 3M™ Adhesive Mounts
1 Three-Way Pivoting Side Arm Assembly
2 Quick-Release Buckles
1 USB Cable
1 Component Video (HDTV) Cable
1 Composite Video + Audio Out Cable
Warranty: One Year

The HD HERO is available in several different kits, depending on which mounting options are most important to you.

HD Motorsports HERO

Designed for use on vehicles, the mounts included with this kit give you plenty of options for mounting the camera in a number of different angles. Whether you are drag racing, autocrossing, have a hot street car, or anything like that, this is the kit for you.

1 HD HERO Camera (5 megapixel)
1 Rechargeable 1100 mAh Lithium-Ion Battery
1 Waterproof Quick-Release Housing (180’/60m)
3 Flat 3M™ Adhesive Mounts
2 Curved 3M™ Adhesive Mounts
2 Quick-Release Buckles
1 Vertical Surface “J-Hook” Buckle
1 Suction Cup Mount
1 Three-Way Pivoting Side Arm Assembly
1 USB Cable
1 Component Video (HDTV) Cable
1 Composite Video + Audio Out Cable
Warranty: One Year

HD Surf HERO

As the name says, this one is for those that like to get wet.

1 HD HERO Camera (5 megapixel)
1 Rechargeable 1100 mAh Lithium-Ion Battery
1 Waterproof Quick-Release Housing (180’/60m)
1 3M™ Adhesive Mounting Base
1 FCS™ Plug-Compatible Mount
1 Quick-Release Buckle
1 Leash
1 USB Cable
1 Component Video (HDTV) Cable
1 Composite Video + Audio Out Cable
Warranty: One Year

HD HERO Naked


This is the kit for those that are not looking for a lot of mounts. It is the perfect way to purchase a second or third camera, which is what we did.

1 HD HERO Camera (5 megapixel)
1 Rechargeable 1100 mAh Lithium-Ion Battery
1 Waterproof Quick-Release Housing (180’/60m)
1 Curved 3M™ Adhesive Mount
1 Quick-Release Buckle
1 USB Cable
1 Component Video (HDTV) Cable
1 Composite Video + Audio Out Cable
Warranty: One Year

Full Go Pro HD HERO Tech Specs:

Camera Optics

Lens Type: Fixed Focus (2ft/.6m – infinity), glass
Aperture: f/2.8 (high performance in low-light situations)
Angle of View: 170º ultra wide angle in WVGA, 720p, or 960p mode
Angle of View: 127º wide angle in 1080p mode

Video

HD Video Resolution Modes: (subject to change, pending final firmware release)
1080p = 1920×1080 pixels (16:9), 30 fps, 15 Mbit/s data rate
960p = 1280×960 pixels (4:3), 30 fps, 12 Mbit/s data rate
720p = 1280×720 pixels (16:9), 60 fps, 15 Mbit/s data rate
720p = 1280×720 pixels (16:9), 30 fps, 8 Mbit/s data rate
WVGA = 848×480 pixels (16:9), 60 fps, 8 Mbit/s data rate
Sensor Type: 1/2.5″ HD CMOS, 2.2µm-sized pixels
Light Sensitivity: Super low-light sensitivity (>1.4 V/lux-sec)
Video Format: H.264 compression, saved as Windows- & Mac-compatible MPEG4 (.mp4) file
Exposure Control: Auto with user selectable center weighted average and spot metering settings
White Balance: Auto

Audio

Microphone: Built-in, mono with AGC (automatic gain control)
Audio Format: 48 kHz, AAC audio compression

Photo

Resolution: 5 megapixel
Capture Modes: Single shot, photo every 2, 5, 10, 30, or 60 secs.; 3 photo burst; self-timer

Storage

Memory: SD card, up to 32GB capacity (SDHC)
Average recording times (using 32GB SD card):
1080p (30 fps): 4h 21m
960p (30 fps): 5h 26m
720p (60 fps): 4h 21
720p (30 fps): 8h 09m
WVGA (60 fps): 8h 09m

Camera Connectors & Cables

PC Connection: USB 2.0 (data connection and battery charging)
HDTV Out: HD NTSC & PAL (component cable included)
Audio Out: Combo 2.5mm jack with stereo audio and composite video out
PC Compatibility: Windows® XP (Service Pack 2 or later), Vista, or Windows 7; Mac OS® X 10.4.11 and later

Power & Battery

Battery Type: Rechargeable 1100 mAh lithium-ion
Battery Life: Approximately 2.5 hrs
Charging: via USB to computer or optional power adapter
Charge Time: 80% capacity after 1 hour with optional power adapter; or 2 hours with a computer’s USB port

Waterproof Camera Housing

Depth Rating: Up to 180 feet / 60 meters
Construction: Polycarbonate and stainless steel
Hardware: Stainless steel

Size & Weight

Dimensions (H x W x D): 1.6” x 2.4” x 1.2” (42mm x 60mm x 30mm)
Weight: 3.3oz (94g) incl. battery, 5.9oz (167g) including housing

Source:

Go Pro
Web: www.goprocamera.com

When it comes to driving styles for enthusiasts on the road, there are two main types. There are those that run skinny tires up front and ultra wide drag radials in the rear for the maximum traction in a straight line with the least resistance. Then on the flip side are those that enjoy traction through turns more than a straight line. While tire design between the two driving types are completely different, one aspect they have in common is that a grippy tire doesn’t come cheap – that is until Nitto released their summer performance tire, the NT05.

The Evolution of the Budget Summer Performance Tire

Through the 1990s there was a shift in what first-time car buyer enthusiasts wanted out of their budget performance vehicle. There was a shift from a mostly drag racing centric market to people that cared more about speed through the corners. Up until the late 1990s, if you wanted a sticky summer performance handling tire, you were going to pay an arm and a leg for them. Used tire depots became a popular place to try to find lightly used sets for a bargain, because most couldn’t afford $1000+ for a medium sized 17-inch set that were new.

Tire manufactures realized this and the younger companies began to introduce budget performance tires in the late 1990s, while more prominent names were too proud to create a Casio version of their Rolex tires. For the smaller companies, the budget performance summer tire served as the heartbeat that made them grow larger as this trend grew fast. Now young enthusiasts had the ability to buy brand new performance tires for pennies on the dollar.

These tires offered stiff side walls to reduce flex under cornering, decent water grooves for light rain driving, and a soft compound that did not require warm up to work well. Before anyone knew it, these budget tires became the choice of autocross classes like STS and STX that were street tire only classes, and were nearly banned for performing so well. The problem with early generation versions, is that they would have a narrow operating temperature and would get greasy if they were run hard for an extended period of time – the polar opposite of an R-compound.

Procedure Nitto Takes on Designing a New Tire

The NT555 has been a flagship tire amongst Mustang enthusiasts especially for years, but Nitto new this design was dated and needed an update. When it comes to developing a new tire line, the first measure Nitto takes is to make sure that it does not directly compete with any other of their tire lines. Taking from their mantra, “Fueled by Enthusiasts”, Nitto gets feedback from shops and manufactures on their new idea, analyze current popular vehicles for sizes, analysis on competing brand designs, going to new car shows, and take surveys at various races or events.

Nitto’s Miyazaki test course in Japan

For a design concept, Nitto uses a team of designers to draw up possible tread designs that unique, but that can also be functional. The Japan head office then has the technology to analyze the designs to find out which ones will be the most suitable, along with the tread compound. “We use proprietary software that allows us to analyze on pattern noises and make adjustments in the software to compensate for that,” Stephen Leu of Nitto remarked. Once this is done, a hand cut tire prototype is made and reviewed before final design is agreed upon. This even includes the font and logo designs on the sidewall of the tire. From there, prototypes are developed and testing is underway.

Nitto relies mainly on their test facilities (two facilities that include off road and high performance driving) and their sponsored motorsports drivers when it comes to feedback before the final compound and construction is locked in. When it comes to developing different sizes, a new mold has to be purchased. “Similar sizes can be covered by one mold is some cases”, Leu says. “It isn’t labor intensive when introducing a new size, but there is a large monetary investment by having to buy a new mold.” During this whole process, which can take over a year, the team at Nitto is constantly monitoring market trends to make any adjustments before final production takes place.

Nitto’s New High Performance Summer Tire – The NT05

The design of the NT05 stems back to 2007 from when the first ideas were conceived. Working through nearly two years, Nitto released the NT05 at the 2009 SEMA Show. They now currently offer about 25 different sizes. “With our initial sizes developed for the NT05, we went after the current popular vehicles like the Challenger, Mustang (1994 to current), 2010 Camaro, WRX, Evos, BMW series, to name a few.” Nitto prides themselves in being one of the few (if only) that offers a summer performance tire in this range for 20-inch wheel equipped vehicles.

Features of the NT05

At first look at the NT05 you can see how square the tire is. This helps push the maximum amount of traction down to the concrete, including the minimized rain grooves for added rubber

• Reinforced shoulder tread blocks and three ply sidewall construction provide exceptional rigidity and stability
• The continuous center rib consistently provides optimum tread contact with the road to maximize dry performance
• The specifically engineered silica-infused (silica is what helps the tires stick to the road) and reinforced internal construction enhance construction, handling and high speed capabilities.
• High tensile steel belts increase tread stiffness
• Spiral wound cap ply provide stable high speed performance and improved uniformity

Hard Core Driving Characteristics

The one concept Nitto knew they wanted with the NT05 was its consistency. They wanted a tire that will constantly perform through its heat cycle and not become plagued from overheating while running them hard. Even though the NT05 is a great street tire, it’s built perform on the race track.

Talking with Nitto Engineer Alan Ngo, he told us a little about the NT05. “The operating temperature of NT05 is 160 to 220 degrees,” said Ngo. “Given that there are a lot of variables in play to heat up a tire to optimal temperature, like the weight of vehicle, the camber, and length of track, the average laps required for the NT05 to heat up will be 1-2 laps.”

Even during its limited time to market, the NT05 in motorsports has been used by Matt Dennison during 2009 time attack events under the Stock Class AWD. In the 2008 Super Lap Battle, Ryan Gates used the production sample of the NT05 (before the product release) and received second place. This is the first time the NT05 was used for competition purposes.

Mounting our NT05s is just like mounting any other tire, though when it comes to plus sizing, putting the tire onto the rim becomes more challenging. Select a reputable installation shop for mounting tires onto new wheels. If care isn’t taken when mounting them, you could end up with scrapes on the lips of your new wheels

Testing the NT05 with Forgeline Wheels on our G8

One of more popular projects lately has been our Pontiac G8 GXP. Equipped with factory 19-inch wheels and tires, and a performance-tuned suspension, it has been called a 4-door Corvette. We decided to up the ante and perform testing with Nitto NT05 tires, 245/40/19 and 285/35/19. To fit the extra size rear tires, we went to our friends at Forgeline Wheels and had them whip us up some custom GXP sizes that will perfectly fill the wheelwells and give the GXP a wicked stance.

We spoke with Forgeline executive David Schardt who designed a set of S03P wheels with some custom design flairs. Gloss black powdercoat with what Forgeline calls their “Diamond-edge” finish – which is the diamond-cut effect you see on the edge of each spoke.

Forgeline is one the best custom wheel makers in the business – building light, high-performance racing wheels that can be driven daily on the street. But the real magic is the Forgeline sauce is the custom offsets – you see Forgeline has their own in-house CNC equipment, so they can custom made almost every single offset known to man, even as tight as 1/8-th of an inch.

Although Forgeline won’t give away the information on the G8 offsets they made for us, rest assured, they will build you a set, and you can fit perfectly the 19 x 10 and 19 x 9.5 wheels that we chose. The only thing worth mentioning – with this wide tire we chose, we did need to roll the fenderlips!

Driving Impressions

Unlike many competition tires, the Nitto NT05′s were fairly sticky from minute 1 of our testing driving. The stiffer sidewalls gave the car a firmer side than the O.E. rubber, but not so firm that driving, potholes, and speed bumps were uncomfortable. The tire felt more stable under cornering and that confidence extended to the driving experience. After about 5 minutes of hard driving, we did feel the tires get a little more grippy, especially when pushed to the edge. Straight line traction was impressive — full throttle in first gear with the traction control disengaged did produce some moderate wheel spin, but an impressive amount of stick for a 390 rwhp car on regular street radials with a 5-speed.

In terms of comparing this to Nitto’s existing line, the NT05 occupies a very nice niche for the late model Muscle car. The NT555 is a great tire – less expensive and certainly a slightly older design, but it doesn’t provide the performance of the NT05 with dry traction. The Drag Radial works fantastic for straight line power, but doesn’t offer the handling flexibility or wet handling that the NT05 brings to the table.

All in all, the Nitto NT05 is a perfect upgrade to the NT555. If our words don’t do the trick, you should see our smile behind the wheel.

Source:

Nitto Tire
Web: www.nittotire.com
Phone: (714) 252-0007

Forgeline Wheels
Web: www.forgeline.com
Phone: (800) 886-0093

Your clutch is a critical link in your drivetrain, taking power from the engine to the road. It’s also a component that will eventually need replacement, either due to normal wear and tear, failure from asking it to handle more than it was designed to withstand, or preferably as an upgrade to match other vehicle modifications. No matter what the reason, when replacing a clutch there is a series of steps you’ll need to accomplish before, during, and after your installation. Following these steps will help you save a lot of time and money.

To help you work through these steps, Centerforce Clutches has created their own Clutch Install Checklist. This checklist is a great tool to have whenever you are installing a clutch on any type of vehicle. When it came time to install a new Centerforce clutch on our our 2000 Mustang GT, the checklist saved us a lot of time, money, and hard work. Follow along as we go through the three different sections of the checklist and apply them to our install.

Part One: Pre-Installation

The Pre-Installation Checklist is all about being prepared so you have as few problems as possible when installing your clutch. This section is extremely important because it gets you organized so you don’t have to stop your installation once you’ve started due to not having the correct part or tool.

“We, of course, want to reduce any warranty work that could be a result of an existing problem, therefore saving the customer time and money,” explains Centerforce’s Bryan Wilson. Along with assisting in your organization, this checklist will tell you if you really need to spend the money on a new clutch or if it is merely an easy adjustment that’s needed instead.

The Pre-Installation checklist is possibly the most important section of the three — following all the steps will pay big dividends in time and money once you’re wrenching under the car.

Determine Why You Need a New Clutch

Burned-out friction materials are the usual reason for clutch replacement, but issues like broken hub spring retainers or bent release forks can point to other problems that need to be corrected as well.

Before you begin any kind of wrenching on your vehicle, or even order a new clutch, you need to pin down why you are installing a new clutch in the first place. If some sort of mechanical failure prompted the swap, you’ll need to be prepared to remedy the situation at the same time you’re changing out the clutch. If it’s an upgrade to a clutch with more holding power, you’ll want to make sure the new unit is suited to the torque your engine is producing, and the kind of driving you’ll be doing — putting in a killer double-throwdown superclutch might seem like a good idea, but your left leg will thank you for going with something more streetable in your modified daily driver. Finally, if you’re just replacing your clutch due to normal wear taking its toll, then the only thing you need to do is install your new Centerforce Clutch.

Tools and Supplies Needed

After you have determined why you need a new clutch, you need to check if you have all the items on hand necessary to do the swap. Having the right tools makes the difference between a smooth, straightforward job and an unpleasant ordeal. The Pre-Installation section has a helpful list of all of the tools and supplies you will need.

One invaluable resource is a service manual for your vehicle, which will have all of the torque values you will need to know, as well as details on any special procedures required for clutch R&R on your particular ride. A torque wrench, clutch alignment tool (typically, but not always included with the new clutch, so check!), jack and jack stands, and a dedicated transmission jack or jack adapter for your floor jack are some of the tools you will definitely need when removing and installing a clutch.

Acetone or brake cleaner is needed to remove any contamination (like your greasy handprints) and clean the surface of your pressure plate and flywheel before you button everything up, and you may need transmission fluid or hydraulic clutch fluid for your particular application. Most importantly, make sure you have your Centerforce Clutch, a new throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and a resurfaced or new flywheel.

A transmission jack, or a transmission adapter for your floor jack that can securely support the gearbox is a necessity for a clutch swap. Trying to balance the heavy transmission on a regular jack, or even worse, just trying to muscle it, is asking for trouble.

Installation

After you have all of the tools and supplies you need, along with a new clutch and components, you are almost ready to complete the swap. There is one more critical inspection that needs to take place. With the transmission and old clutch removed, you need to inspect all of the clutch parts. Pulling the transmission is something you only want to do once, if you can, so now is the time to inspect and replace anything that might be questionable.

In our application we inspected the clutch fork, the splines on the input shaft, the pilot bearing, and the throw-out bearing guide. If your application has a hydraulic system, full inspection of that is needed as well. Now you are prepared and ready for the install.

Checking off each installation step as you go will avoid the dreaded, “Oh, nuts…” moment at the end when you realize you forgot something after the transmission is already bolted back up.

The Install

The Installation Checklist gives you a general list tasks common to every clutch swap. “There are many different steps before, during, and after a clutch install. We still require that the person installing these parts use a factory manual, but these tips will help in every case because they are non-specific to a vehicle,” said Wilson.

You need to check your transmission input shaft for any damage or wear. This is done by sliding the clutch disk on and off the input shaft. The throw-out bearing guide tube must also be checked for any wear or galling. The flywheel needs to be double-checked to assure that it has been resurfaced and balanced to the OEM specifications.

Next, the dowel pins (if your clutch setup uses them) on the flywheel need to be secure, straight, and smooth. The last step is to make sure there is dry graphite lubricant or lithium grease on the input shaft splines, avoiding all of the flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate friction surfaces.

Removing and installing your transmission should be done carefully in order to eliminate the possibility of bending the input shaft

Post Installation

The Post Installation Checklist gives you the final bullet points to hit after your installation is complete. For cable-operated clutches like the one on our Mustang, you should refer back to your manual in order to get the correct adjustment procedure. Once this is done you can take your vehicle out for a road test to ensure that everything is working smoothly and correctly. Be sure to follow the clutch manufacturer’s recommendations for breaking in and seating the new clutch to assure it performs the way it should.

After the installation is finished, check off each Post Installation step as you complete it.

A clutch installation can end up being easy or difficult. If you follow the Centerforce Checklist, you’re far more likely to have a good experience. Being organized as well as having the correct tools and supplies are what’s necessary to assure a smooth clutch install, and the Centerforce Checklist covers it all. If you have any more questions, or you want to obtain a copy of the checklist, the Centerforce Team is always happy to help.

Source:
Centerforce Clutches
Web: www.centerforce.com
Phone: 928-771-8422

CNC porting is hands down the most cost-effective way to port and polish your heads. One company that we’ve been working with for some time now is Ford Performance Solutions / Avenger Cylinder heads. Owner Troy Bowen has helped us with a few engine builds, and we decided to take a little closer look at his CNC-ported heads, branded under the “Avenger” name – in return. Enjoy!

Check out the video below, and read below for even more cool facts and tidbits on CNC porting:

Top Interesting “CNC Porting” Facts

• CNC porting involves more than just loading a bare head into a CNC machine and pushing the magical GO button: “Each port design really starts out as a hand ported design,” explains Bowen. “Things such as CFM, port volume and combustion chamber profile are just a few sources for data that are collected and analyzed during this process to ensure the port-design is top notch,” added Bowen.

• Port Digitizing is what “Maps” your port: This digital information is a graphed into a computerized model and used to set what is called the tool path. The tool path is the exact patch the CNC cutter will follow to best recreate the original hand ported design. This program takes into account the size and length of the cutter to ensure that there are no accidental cuts, especially when reaching deep into the runners.

• Double Checking the “Map” versus the original “Port” is important:
  Before going to mass production, Bowen takes the time to ensure the tool path results in a port job that is similar to the original hand ported design.

• Prototype Testing is Critical: “Once this first prototype is finished being ported, it returns to the flow bench and dyno for additional testing to compare it to the original hand ported model,” says Bowen. From there changes are made when necessary to ensure the final tool path results in a high flowing CNC head.

• Matching & Blending the port entry & exit is the tricky part: The matching and blending of where the intake and exhaust ports meet up with the valve bowl is extremely important. Getting this wrong will cause even the best designed port to flow like you know what. “Making sure that the head is indexed properly in relation to the tool during setup ,” says Bowen.

• Don’t Get Shanked: The CNC machine actually keeps active track of the shank of the porting tool to try to keep it from colliding with the port entry while reaching deep into the port. According to Bowen, “This is critical or the tool will snap or gouge the port.”

• Hand Blending: It Helps: Avenger hand blends any “steps” formed from the cutting tool and blends in the valve job to a smooth finish. The final step for Avenger is to assemble the heads with quality springs, valves, and other valve train hardware, before packaging them up to be shipped out.

Source

Avenger Cylinder Heads
Web: www.avengercylinderheads.com
Phone: 714-773-4177

From a practical perspective, going to a machine shop is like going to a marriage counselor. Seriously, and we’re not trying to be funny here, but there is a relationship between what your goals are and what your pocketbook and equipment can produce. Like any good counselor, the machinist should help you navigate through the tough problematic areas between wants, needs and capabilities. There is a most definitely a chance to save the marriage between man and machine, and that road leads through a good engine machinist.

Finding the Right Machine Shop for You
Not all machine shops are the same just as not all engine builds are the same. When selecting a machine shop, the engine builder should consider the things that are most important. If you are looking for a quick turn around time, a close machine shop that has less of a back log is probably a better selection or deserves more consideration in the selection process. A machine shop that has less of a back log in work deserves a little more investigation. Don’t automatically assume that a shop that is less busy than others in the local area does bad work. The shop may be newer and has not built it’s reputation yet. Most machine shops do very little advertising and rely on word of mouth advertising between racers to help their business.

Find a machine shop that is familiar with the equipment that you are working work. Checking specs and knowing the tolerances is extremely important. This is what you are paying for, expertise.

Ask Questions
Find out about the machine shops in your area. Experience says a lot about machinists, and those that have good reputations have very loyal customers that are only too happy to tell you how great their machine shop is. Ask around about the type of engine builds that the shop normally performs. A shop that is dedicated to doing machine work on daily driver 4 cylinder street cars may not be on the cutting edge of top fuel dragster engine technology. Likewise, a machine shop a couple of hours drive away may not be aware of the rules at your local track. Through lack of familiarity or experience, they may machine your engine outside of the rules and cause you a great deal of grief when you get disqualified from an event. This can be prevented by asking if the machine shop has experience in your type engine application.

Take a Look
Before committing to a machine shop, it would be prudent to visit the shop and take a look around. A shop that is in disarray is a warning sign, especially if you are bringing your own parts for the build. Parts can be misplaced or lost causing delays in your engine build and damaging the trust between you and your machinist. Organization in a machine shop is a big deal. A dirty shop can also alert you to problems. Ideally, a machine shop will have separate areas for disassembly, cleaning, machining and assembly. In the assembly area, the shop should be neat and clean. Dirt is an engines worst enemy. A machine shop that has a dirty assembly area is asking for shortened life span on your internal engine components.

Take a look around the shop. It should be well lit and have some organization.

The Next Step
Once you have found a machine shop that has the experience, the right equipment and is within your comfort level, you should talk to the machinist about your engine build. The more that you understand about the machining process, the more intelligent questions you will be able to ask. Asking the right questions and getting the best answers will assure that you will be happier with the end results. A good machinist will help guide you through the process of selecting the right parts and making the best machining decisions to meet the goal that you are trying to achieve with the build.

Talking with your machinist about the parts will help prevent fitment issues during the rebuild.

Understanding What the Machine Shop Needs to Know
We talked with Keith Clark of Rancho Performance Machine in Temecula, California. Over a twenty four year career of building race engines for the inland empire region of Southern California, Keith’s shop has built a solid reputation in the offroad, circle track and drag race communities. We asked Keith how he has been successful. “When a customer comes in and wants machining work done, we try to find out certain things about his project to ensure that he gets what he wants out of the final product.” Keith went on to explain “there are three basic areas that we want to discuss before any work is done. What is the application, how much horsepower does the customer want to make, and what kind of budget are we working with?” According to Keith, “we use different machining techniques and procedures for different types of applications. For an engine that is being built for the circle track, we tend to machine the components more for endurance than we would for a ultra high horsepower drag strip engine that requires taking the tolerances to the edge of machining.”

Keith explained that a good machine shop will sit down with a customer and go over the entire engine build and cover all the options as well as the benefits of each option. Based on the budget a customer has to work with and the target goal of the rebuild, the machinist will suggest a combination of parts and procedures that will get to the desired horsepower for the application that the engine is intended for.

Our Project Build – a 355 Chevy
In the case of our project engine build, we had a modest budget and a set of track rules to work within. Beginning with a common small block Chevy 350 engine block with four bolt mains, and a set of stock Vortec 061 heads. Keith recommended that we start with some basics. Opening up the oil drain back holes at the front and back of the block in the lifter valley was pretty much standard. Because the block was an experienced (used) block, Keith recommended a good cleaning and degreasing followed by thorough inspection and magnaflux process to check for cracks. A good inspection is essential early in the machining process to find any show stopping problems before any money is spent on parts. If a block is cracked and unusable, the parts that you have already bought may not work in a new block. The cleaning process is also a must. Even more than aesthetics, the cleaning removes buildup of gunk and crud from oil galleys and water passages.

A thorough inspection of the block before machine work begins is a must.

Starting the Work
Our block checked out fine during the magnafluxing and inspection process, so we met with Keith to discuss the next steps. Tapping the oil galley plug holes in the front of the block is another standard procedure. It’s unlikely that the press in plug will blow out in a circle track engine, but why take the chance?

SBC Blocks have press in oil galley plugs on the front of the engine. Even in a “hot” street engine they typically won’t blow out, but why take the chance?

The machinist will tap new threads into the galley ports for pipe plugs.

Pipe plugs are fitted into the oil galleys. The length of the middle plug is critical because it could block the oil port for the #1 camshaft bearing.

Running a thread chaser through the head bolt threads is another one of those common procedures that should not be forgotten. Keith reminded us that “yes, there is a difference between a thread chaser and a tap. A thread chaser will re-form the threads while a tap will cut threads”. Make sure to ask your machine shop to use a thread chaser in the head bolt threads.

A good machinist will use a thread chaser to form the head bolt threads.

Keith’s shop removes the oil galley plug at the back of the block near the oil pressure galley with wax and a torch. These plugs must be heated up for removal because they are installed at the foundry when the block is still hot. As the block cools down, it secures the plug into the block. The only safe way to remove the plug is with a torch.

Removing the oil plug at the back of the block requires heat and thread lubricant.

This is Boring
By this point the machinist will have inspected the block enough to tell how much your cylinders need to be bored in order to clean up the cylinder walls. This is critical when ordering pistons for the build. We were shooting for 0.030 over boring on the cylinders and oversized pistons to match. Your machinist will need the new pistons to check the fit and decking of the block, so ordering these in advance will speed up the turn around time. Talking with your machinist before ordering any parts will prevent ordering the wrong piston size which will cause the process to come to a grinding (or boring) halt.

Setting up the boring machine for a precise cut.

Boring Machines
There are several types of cylinder boring machines on the market, and all of them will work successfully provided the machinist does a good job during set up. Our machinist Keith explained that “ many people don’t realize how much time the machinist spends setting up the equipment to get the machining work done in these precise measurements.”

Keith went on to show us what he considers one of the more precise boring machines. “Our Rottler unit is designed for a long life of heavy use. They mount the block off of the crankshaft bores which make it a very accurate machine. Getting the cylinders bored exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the crankshaft is extremely important. The boring machines that mount to the top of the block can sometimes angle the cylinder bore to the front or back of the block. This puts unwanted load on the pistons and can cause early failure”. Keith even goes a step further when setting up the boring machine. Using a wet stone, he hand stones the oil pan rails at the bottom of the block and the top surface of the block to ensure that there are no burrs or gouges in the metal that may prevent the block from mounting completely flat in the Rottler machine. Keith reminded us that “there’s no such thing as being too accurate”.

Dressing the cutting tool before each cylinder boring job is the sign of a good machine shop.

Using a boring machine that registers off of the main caps is probably the most accurate for straight bores.

Leveling the engine block to the machine ensures a straight bore.

Cutting cylinder bore in the middle and then jumping one bore to the outside of the block helps keep the temperature down between bores.

Once the boring tool tool has passed the entire length of the cylinder bore, the new bore is shiny new and about 0.005″ away from the final bore size.

Surfacing the Block
If you are trying to build a dependable leak free engine, you will probably want to resurface the block. This helps on a number of levels. Primarily, you can prep the surface for whatever head gasket you are going to use. For many years gasket manufacturers claimed that a roughness average of 55 to 110 micro inches (50 to 125 RMS) was acceptable. But that was during the age of cast iron blocks with cast iron heads. As the block castings have become less rigid, flatter and smoother mating surfaces have become more important. The current wisdom is a surface finish of 30 to 110 roughness average for cast iron and recommendations for aluminum heads on bimetal engines range between 30 to 60 roughness average finish. These smoother finishes help the gasket’s ability to achieve a positive cold seal and maintain a long lasting leak free seal.

Zero Decking
If you are trying to squeeze as much horsepower out the engine as you can and maintain durability, you will probably want to “zero deck” the block. Building a competition race engine requires a machinist to use precise measurements on block deck height, crankshaft stroke, connecting rod length and compression dimensions that will work in perfect harmony together to produce the most power for the application. One of the cornerstones of this process is controlling the distance that the piston is above or below the block deck surface. The further the piston is below the deck of the block, the move volume it adds which reduces compression. Figuring in the head gasket thickness as added volume also, this compression reduction can add up to a considerable amount. Most high performance engine machinists will try to bring the piston as close to the top of the surface as possible. This is zero decking, and if done properly the only clearance is the head gasket thickness in it’s compressed state. According to our race engine machinist Keith, “increased compression can help all the way around. From low end torque, coming off the corner’s faster to higher rpms. Compression can be a good thing.”

When “zero decking”, the machinist will measure piston height to the block deck and shave the deck to the point where the piston top is flush with the block deck.

Cylinder Honing
Most machinists will bore the cylinders to within 0.004 or 0.005 of the final bore size to allow for the material that honing will remove from the cylinder walls. The actual method and honing procedure varies from shop to shop, but Keith explained that “your machine shop will need to know what type of rings you are going to use so that the proper bore surface finish to apply so that the rings seat properly”. Most ring packages that come with race pistons are manufactured with materials that require none or very little time to seat.

Honing with torque plates used to be reserved for high horsepower blocks only. Studies by several gasket companies and aftermarket engine block manufacturers have proven that even a street engine benefits from torque plate honing. Using a thick plate that is torqued down on the block with head bolts simulates the distortion created when the cylinder heads are torqued on the block. Torque plate honing allows the machinist to get the surface as close to perfect cylindrical perfection as possible.

Using a head gasket under the torque plate helps simulate the torque load on the block.

Using a torque plate will allow the machinist to duplicate the torque load on the block that creates distortion in the cylinders.

Torque plates are manufactured to allow the hone to pass through the plate while still providing the torque pressure against the block.

Align Boring and Honing
If you plan on using an aftermarket crankshaft or a nice trick set of engine bearings, you probably want to consider getting the block align bored and honed. If the goal is to build a high horsepower motor, align boring and honing is a must. Keith tells us that “a lot of customers believe that align boring and honing is a step that you can skip to save a few bucks in the machining budget, but I disagree. Tolerances are very tight in these areas and if you are out of specs far enough where you have metal on metal contact, the engine will eat itself in no time”.

Basically, align boring is measuring the inside diameter of the main journals and machining them to the correct measurement. Then a long boring tool is used to bore the journals in relation to each other and finished with a honing tool. This procedure will ensure that the crankshaft will rotate freely and with less parasitic friction.

Align boring and honing is recommended, especially on older blocks that have seen some action.

Balancing
To sum this up in a couple of words; A Must. Even a mild street engine with stock replacement parts will benefit from balancing the rotating assembly. Balancing will ensure that dynamic components are compatible with each other. This is cheap insurance if you are mixing aftermarket components from different manufacturers. The basic idea behind balancing the crankshaft is checking the weight of the pistons, rings, rod and wrist pin against the counterweight of the crankshaft. Our machinist Keith explained that “an internally balanced crankshaft can be balanced without the flywheel/flexplate or balancer but an externally balanced crankshaft must include these in the balance process”.

Balancing the internal rotating assembly is critical for long engine life under race conditions.

Summing it up – Top 10 Things You Need to Know about Dealing with a Machine Shop
There are some clear advantages to understanding what services you are paying your machinist for and it is obvious to us that talking with your machine shop operator will help you avoid some common pitfalls that can be real show stoppers.

1. Find a reputable machine shop that has experience in the type of engine application that you are working with.
2. Work with the machinist on the engine build plan, the parts that will be used and the budget that you have to work with. You’ll be surprised how much time and money a good machinist can save you in wrong parts or parts that won’t work well together.
3. Always get the block cleaned and inspected before ordering any parts.
4. Bring the new parts in for the machinist to measure. Tolerances are very close on internal engine components, and a machinist will need to know the specs on your new aftermarket engine components to make sure they fit properly with the machined block.
5. Understand that your machinist spends a lot of time measuring and checking clearances. Rushing your machine shop operator will limit the checks and double checks that machinists normally do which can end up costing you horsepower or engine life.
6. Get the block surfaced and bored. It’s never wise to try and get by with a power honing. It’s best if you get the cylinders bored with a machine that references off of the main journals.
7. Have the bores honed with a torque plate. This will ensure a more cylindrical bore with the heads bolted on the block.
8. Don’t skip on the align boring and honing, especially when you are trying to make a dependable engine.
9. Never bypass the rotating assembly balancing. Getting the crankshaft balanced is a must if you are using aftermarket parts.
10. Build a good relationship with your machinist. A machine shop that earns your trust is worth being loyal to.

Rancho Performance Machine
(951)676-9292

One of the most important aspects for a properly operating engine is the air/fuel ratio. An air/fuel ratio that is too rich will waste horsepower, and one that is too lean will cause certain destruction to your engine. Although in these difficult economic times you may be tempted to cut costs while working on your project car, don’t skimp on the most crucial parts and accessories.

One of those critical gauges, the wide band air/fuel ratio gauge, has up until recently been an expensive one. Thankfully, however, FAST has released a budget wide band air/fuel ratio gauge that allows you to tune on the road without breaking the bank. “We wanted to find to find a way to get wide band tuning into the hands of everybody,” says Matt Patrick of Comp Cams. “The hand held units have been a big step in that direction, though can be an expensive. We had already designed the processors for dynos and had those in place for a couple of years now – they have proven to be very reliable units. So we figured we could attach a simple gauge to it so it is a nice, low cost kit that allows someone to go out and tune their car with.” We happily went to work installing one on our Project “Riced Rat Rod” 240sx.

What About Renting a Dyno?

Renting a dyno is expensive, especially considering the fact that you need to keep renting one every time you make a change on your car. Tuning on the street is much more efficient as it allows you to tune in a ‘real world’ environment. EFI and carburated vehicles alike need a correct air/fuel ratio, and FAST’s new budget wide band air/fuel ratio gauge makes tuning on the street possible as well as affordable.

When building our 240sx, we were required to do it on a budget. Our small block Chevy utilized Dart’s budget 400 CI Chevy SHP short block with a Pro 1 top end kit. It was also affixed with a Holley 830 CFM carburetor, Comp Cams valve train, TCI balancer, and a Pertronix ignition. With 525 horsepower naturally aspirated on the engine dyno, the air/fuel ratio readings were perfect. But once off the dyno and mounted into a lightweight 5 speed equipped chassis, the tables turned. Our air/fuel ratios were still spot-on during wide open acceleration, however, they suffered from partial throttle hiccups.

Since this car is so light and has great gearing from our Tremec TKO-600, the throttle blades were barely opening under low throttle acceleration. Also, we noticed that while on the highway our gas mileage was less than desirable. With these issues in mind, we were looking to the FAST air/fuel gauge to help remedy these problems.

The FAST Budget Wide Band Gauge

FAST Budget Wide Band Kit PN-#170634
• 2-1/16th Analog White Gauge
• Reads from 8:1 to 16:1
• Real Time Monitoring
• Bosch Wide Band O2 Sensor With Internal Heater
• Processor For Converting The O2 Sensor Voltage
• Weld On Bung

The FAST air/fuel ratio gauge is just that. It is a simple to install and easy to read gauge that displays in real time. The 2 1/16 inch gauge reads from 8 to 16 to 1, and is back lit for night time monitoring. The gauge hooks up to a FAST processor that relays the signal from the wide band O2 sensor that is mounted in the exhaust. “The voltage that outputs from the processor directly correlates to a given air fuel ratio,” says Patrick. “In the instructions, there is a formula that allows you to wire it into a data-logger or standalone. Using that, it will allow you to calibrate the formula to anything you want.” The wiring is a simple ground, plus constant and switched 12 volts.

The simple, mocked up wiring.

For the installation, we went back to our local Nissan performance shop, Mckinney Motorsports. The hardest part of the installation is the drilling and welding of the O2 sensor bung. Before removing any exhaust components, check the location of where you want to mount the 02 sensor in the exhaust to make sure there is no interference. FAST recommends installing the sensor before the catalytic converters. If this isn’t possible, then they recommend installing them at the next closest location. Keep in mind that you will see some light variance in your readings if you install the sensor after the catalytic converter.

Be sure to mark the sensor location with a legible pen so you know where to drill when the exhaust is removed. Also, do not install the gauge in the bottom of the exhaust pipe. Not only will this break the O2 sensor into pieces at the first bump you hit, but it will also collect condensation in the sensor which will damage it.

Mack and Gary then removed the H-pipe that was affixed to our Hooker LT-1 style headers and placed it onto the vice where a small drill hole was cut and deburred to snugly fit the O2 sensor bung. A few minutes with the TIG welder and the bung was secured for life at a 2 o’clock position on the passenger side. Two T-bolt clamps and a rear axle back flange later and the exhaust was back in. The O2 sensor came pre-lubed with anti-seize to make future wide band removal easy.

The exhaust is being installed and the O2 sensor is being screwed in place.

With the O2 sensor installed, we began routing the wiring for the processor. We fed everything into the car through the gaping hole in the firewall that once housed the OEM engine wiring harness, and we fit the processor safely behind the stereo. FAST provides more than enough line to allow you to run the processor wherever you would like. I asked Matt about the little plug on the back of the processor and he explained, “That plug is what we use for programming the processor. This allows us to program the output voltage however we want or for lamda. We also have the ability to adjust the sensitivity of the gauge, depending on the application.”

The O2 sensor plug was then routed down to the male end of the O2 sensor. Next, Mack and Gary simply slid the two pieces together and flipped the gray latch over the tab to lock it in place. They secured the wiring away from the exhaust so it would not hang and get burnt.

The gray U-shaped tab will flip forward to lock the connectors together.

The only task that remained was the wiring. The gauge comes with its own plug that gets connected to the wires on the processor. Going for an extra clean and durable connection, Mack soldered all our connections and covered them in shrink rap. As we show in the mock-up diagram above, the black and brown wires from the processor connect to the black wire from the gauge plug, which then gets connected to a chassis ground. The red wire from the processor connects to the gauge’s blue wire and runs to a 12-volt switched source. The brown wire from the gauge plug is for a 12 volt constant, though you can also wire it to the red/blue wires like we did.

The orange processor wire and blue gauge wire are the final wires that join the two electronics. The orange wire from the processor can also be used as a signal reference for any electronics that feature a O2 sensor plug-in. The white wire on the gauge plug is our last wire, which connects to a headlight trigger source for night time illumination. Since we lacked a home for the wide band gauge at the time of our installation, we temporarily placed it snugly in the pocket below the stereo.

Installation Done and Time for Testing

With the installation completed, we flipped on the power switch located on the dash. The gauge swept from 8 to 16 and back again, proving to us that the gauge was operating properly. After a couple of seconds of waiting for the O2 sensor’s internal heater to start working, we fired up the car. The gauge instantly responded and read the air/fuel ratio as real time. It was a pleasing sight as our idle air/fuel ratios were floating right on target in the 14 to 14.5:1 area.

After idling out of the parking lot, we made our way to the streets. As the carburetor came out of the idle circuit around 1500 rpm under cruising speeds, we noticed that the accelerator pump was introducing too much fuel into the main circuit and was dropping the air/fuel ratios into the 10.5:1 range. Not requiring much accelerator pedal effort to get the car moving, we knew this was going to be an issue. We also encountered another problem of running too rich while cruising on the interstate when again the air/fuel ratio averaged 11:1 with the throttle barely cracked. It was now time for us to tune our part throttle.

In order to remedy our situation, we began by reducing our main jets by 3 jet sizes and bumping up the secondaries by two so we could compensate for the difference. For the accelerator pump, we swapped out the pump cam to give a softer increase of fuel from the pump on the main circuit transition. We noted, however, that reducing the accelerator pump nozzle could do the same trick.

We then took the 240sx back out for some test driving and noticed a dramatic improvement. Not only did our cruising air/fuel ratios lean out, but the low throttle acceleration became much more friendly. After only a few simple hours installing our FAST budget wide band sensor, we were able to increase our drivability around town as well as gain much better gas mileage numbers on the highway. Not only did we improve our project car, but we also kept some money in our pockets!

Since our entire 240SX was built on a budget, why not extend that to the mounting of the FAST Air/Fuel Ratio gauge. We figured, why not stuff this super strong gauge into the small opening under the radio, distorting the stock dash and almost breaking it. Didn’t matter, the FAST Air/Fuel ratio gauge worked just great.

Sources:

FAST
Web: www.fuelairspark.com
Phone: (877) 334-8355

Mckinney Motorsports
Web: www.mckinneymotorsports.com
Phone: (951) 304-9300